Thanks. Thats especially true if youre knitting a small, close-fitting garment like a sock or mitt. 5 sts / inch on size US 7. November 2020 However, roping is more commonly used to refer specifically to this stage inwoolen-spinning mills. Great article! January 2019 March 2015 Combed top can be used to make yarns for items that are still going to be warm, like a hat, it just will not have the insulating ability of a yarn spun woolen, but will be stronger than a woolen spun yarn. Worsted wool can be made up into many different cloths, which may be appropriate for suits, jacket and/or trousers. There are various form of long draw, some make more air filled yarns than others, but the one thing they have in common is that drafting backwards motion, allowing twist to enter the drafting zone. September 2022 April 2019 The woolen singles were a little thicker and less consistent, so this isn't surprising. Well-twisted yarn spun of long-staple wool which has been combed to lay the fibers parallel, used for carpets, cloth, hosiery, gloves, and the like. The other style invites the twist into the fiber, it lets the twist zip into the fiber with little to no control; twist is just tossed at the fiber. Put up refers to what sort of shape/size bundle the yarn is in. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics. That ratio helps you understand how thick the yarn is. Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. June 2015 By clicking Accept, you consent to the use of ALL the cookies. September 2018 Now I also know the difference when spinning too. Worsted spun yarns are used in preparation of suits, dresses, crepes. Worsted spun yarn includes individual fibers that are facing in many directions, whereas woolen spun has all of the fibers facing in the same direction before the yarn is spun and they remain much more parallel in the final spun singles. If your gauge is too loose (that is, fewer stitches per inch than it should have), try going down a needle size. This carded wool from the initial fiber preparation is prepared further in a worsted-style through combing. Because the yarn is smoother than woolen yarn, it will be less itchy when worn next to the skin, provided the fibers are not too coarse for comfort. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. January 2015 They are both delightful, yet different. This article is so well written and I love how you explain how the type of yarn will effect the finished product. The primary reason for this is that the wool yarn normally used for these fabrics was produced using a special "worsted" spinning technique that better aligns the fibers. This is so helpful and interesting not to mention how easy to understand. The bloom also means that woolen-spun yarns can be generously forgiving and able to balance out tension or stitch irregularity in knitting. So, and this is without seeing your yarn, your drafting, or the fibre, it's probably a lofty semi-worsted yarn. Shelter is Brooklyn Tweed's first yarn, and one of the most well-loved - a worsted weight, woolen-spun Targhee-Columbia wool, sourced, dyed, and spun entirely in the USA. Your email address will not be published. June 2013 Heres a thread on Ravelry discussing it: https://www.ravelry.com/discuss/techniques/3930171/1-25, Really impressed by the author. Before you go subbing in your new yarn, though, think about the following issues. You can also go to the (Ravelry link) yarn ideas tab to see what yarns other people have substituted. Worsted yarns are smooth and dense, they tend to drape well and be much more lustrous. Now, Cotton-Ease was a perfectly good yarn (its since been discontinued, alas). I hope you enjoy your next project. Maybe youre trying to use up some of your stash. Great information! Great article and most helpful. If you can only achieve one, though, choose accurate stitch gauge. There are two yarns, one brown and one light green. Extremely helpful! Ravelry has a searchable field for this info now, but unfortunately many yarnies/companies havent filled it in yet. The bloom also means that woolen-spun yarns can be generously forgiving and able to balance out tension or stitch irregularity in knitting. Typically worsted spun yarns will have fewer yards per pound verses woolen. Another essential characteristic of woolen-spun yarns, according to Respect the Spindle by Abby Franquemont, is that twist is allowed to play an active role in drafting the fiber drafting refers to when the fiber is pulled slightly to open up and lengthen the fiber structure before being twisted. Thank you! The dead giveaway of the woolen-ness of Empire is the blip of fiber sticking out. August 2021 Voila! Yarnsub is a great resource for substituting yarns from larger companies! Jo, You have a real gift. July 2019 When this "worsted spun" yarn is woven it produces fabric with these qualities unlike the more common woolen-spun wool yarns available to handweavers. Developed and spun in Springvale Maine, we are proud to present the Jagger Spun Collection. ). Thank you so very much for the enlightening article and all the examples. Thank you for a well written and useful article. Woollen spun woven fabrics are thicker and heavier and used mostly for outerwear. Worsted yarn is a smooth and compact yarn that is spun from long staple fibers. Copyright2023Golden Peak Media. December 2018 I wonder if it is related to the tendancy of woollen-spuns to bloom? Not every woolen-spun yarn has a rougher surface, and not every worsted yarn is smooth. July 2013 Ill jump right in with the big one. Instead of carding the fibres they're combed. The same process squeezes out the air making it not as warm. July 2020 Our BWC Wisconsin Woolen Spun yarns are two-ply in both the fingering and worsted weight and are available in 100 gram skeins. January 2017 January 2018 Many commercial yarns are spun with the worsted style. Case in point, hobby lobbys I love this yarn and their soft secret are both worsted, but one is 4 ply and the other 3 ply. We use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. NOW I KNOW. Thedoffer, a large cylinder at the delivery end of the carder, then relays the batt into acondenser, which splits the batt into several thin, untwisted strands calledropingorslivers(sly-vers). While woolen spinning is all about trapping air, worsted does the exact opposite. Be sure not to violate boundaries, too. Well, the differences between woolens and worsted begin at the carding stage. Worsted yarns contrast with woollen yarns, which are carded rather than combed and fuzzier than worsted yarns. UFO to WIP: Can This Crochet or Knitting Project Be Saved? However, you may visit Cookie Settings to provide controlled consent. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. The Windham is more uniform and sleek looking even with the inherent visual softness of the Merino fiber. November 2015 Woolen yarns are the equivalent of cotton carded yarns, and worsted yarns are the wool equivalent of combed cotton yarns, they get the extra process to make them higher quality. The best ways to get in touch with me are by messaging me on Ravelry or by sending an email to abeeinthebonnet (at) gmail (dot) com. Because woolen-spun yarns retain lots of air pockets during the production process, they knit up into very insulating and warm garments. Combed worsted yarn is superior to carded woolen yarn in strength. March 2021 Great article! Unfortunately you cant tell from the ballband unless the manufacturer has included that information. Bonus points for great pictures to make everything visual and extra clear. October 2019 The yarn isn't smoothed, it's simply stretched out like a piece of chewing gum, that traps lots of air in the yarn, and makes it very bouncey and elastic. The unique 12-ply construction means that garments drape beautifully and afghans and warm weather accessories have a cushiony soft bounce. The project aims to restore the hydropower installation to produce clean energy from the waterway that runs under the mill. A lot of totally digestable information, that was logically arranged and illustrated and you even sprinkled it with touches of humor. So, what ply is worsted weight yarn? popular colorways Coal 12 stashed 19 projects Fig 4 projects 4 projects 3 stashed 3 projects 50 projects Snowbound 7 stashed 16 projects Woolen and Worsted yarns. I have noticed that in even acrylic yarns, worsted is not the same. Woolen yarns are the ones you might find bits of hay in. I think it also helps to think of the woolen spun as grippier (as in grips more) since all the fibres are not tamed into a smooth yarn but are sort of sticking out all over. March 2018 Brilliant. The semi-woolen swatch weighed 4.5 g versus 4.3 g for the woolen-spun - not a huge difference in a swatch of this size. To aid you in making an informed choice when choosing between woolen-spun and worsted-spun yarns for your future projects, below is a general guide to the kinds of fabrics you can achieve with either kind. If you cant, try searching the designs hashtag on Instagram. Now I might be able to come closer to making the right choice for the right project. Prepare to fiddle with needle sizes and maybe make a math adjustment or two if your chosen yarn doesnt quite match the gauge in the pattern. Spun/plied 10:1. Thank you for explaining what it actually means. Finally I understand I sorta knew but didnt quite fit it into certain yarns I was knitting on, I always wondered . There are two yarns, one brown and one light green. I finally understand what worsted and wollen mean. The worsted will tend to emphasize the gaps between the colours. Spun worsted style, 2 ply, ~12 wpi, 183 yds/4 oz. Many commercial yarns are spun with the worsted style. One method is not better or worse than the other - just different. Before beginning the process of spinning our woolen-spun yarns, the fiber is first cleaned and then dyed in the fleece. So good! The rub rollernext turns the sliver into roving and adds a false twist. Sign up for our email list and get 10% off your next order in the MDK Shop! The twist brings air with it, and the surface isnt controlled by smoothing as it hits the fiber. I really appreciate you using Tom Hardy as an analogy. Worsted spinning is generally done with the longer fibres, whereas woollen makes use of the shorter ones, which means that worsted yarns are generally denser. April 2016 Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. Its more precise than the yarns weight category of fingering, DK, bulky, etc. Yarn substitution is where you use a different yarn from the yarn recommended by the designer who wrote the pattern youre following. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. Now that you know about how woolen and worsted yarns behave in knitted fabric, youll be able to choose the perfect pattern to complement your new yarn love. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Great visuals and explanations. Woolen spinning also works best on wool with shorter staple lengths, such that if you pull on the yarn from several inches away, the yarn can indeed break. But just to make things tricky, it's entirely possible for a yarn to be both woollen and worsted, generally when a previously spun woollen yarn is re-spun using the worsted technique, creating a so-called semi-woollen or semi-worsted yarn. The fibers of a worsted-spun yarn are first straightened and then oriented in the same direction, making the yarn smooth and shiny, which gives your knitted fabric lots of stitch definition. You've got the woolen spun vs worsted spun reversed. Check out our worsted woolen spun yarn selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. A beautifully written, lucid and illuminating lesson, and several fascinating aspects to the distinctions. It seems that I am and have produced a woollen yarn. Semi worsted will give you more fluff to . Classically speaking there are 2 types of yarn. February 2022 Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. September 2016 Worsted yarn = worsted prep + worsted spin Semi worsted = woolen prep + worsted spin Woolen = woolen prep + woolen spin Semi woolen = worsted prep + woolen spin Examples of worsted spinning would be short forward and short backward drafting. As modern spinners we can now get some much smaller and lighter combs, but combing is still a real physical workout. Its important to know WPI because there is room for variation within each of the yarn weight categories. This was a grat posting. July 2015 Ill be referring back to it next time Im looking for yarn for a specific project. That means theyre good for colorwork and lace projects where you really want your stitches to pop. FO's The worsted yarn will be a little bit stronger whereas the woolen yarn will break a little bit easier. Everyone already said what I wanted to, so Ill just add that Tom Hardy is my Happy Place, no matter how hes spun. Woolen yarns are good for products like tweeds, while worsted yarns are best for smooth fine gaberdines. When worsted fiber is spun together after being combed, its yarn is strong and smooth. It does not store any personal data. Drop me a line any time. You can write a comment on the yarns Ravelry page suggesting that drafting info be added. December 2021 They are also stronger, more durable, and less prone to pilling. You may be wondering by now if one is better than the other. You can read more about the ranges of WPI for each yarn weight on the Craft Yarn Councils website. Never discount the yarn lust factor with yarn. One of the most basic attributes of a yarn is woolen or worsted spun. My question is how does one know whether a Yarn is worsted or woolen spun if one is not sophisticated enough to know just by looking? Thank you! Oh thats right! Thank you for your thoughtful and careful drafting, and especially the photos! April 2015 Keep up with her exploits at jillianmoreno.com. I hope you found time to explore your stash, and perhaps enhance it with yarns of different breeds. Your book will be one of the few in my library, as I want those that provide me the knowledge to choose and knit wisely. The fibers in stitches knit from woolen-spun yarn seem to literally bloom into the space theyre given. I won't give you all the details, but before finishing there was already a significant difference in diameter; the worsted (dark) measured as 17 WPI, while the woolen (light) measured as 12 WPI. Note: Notice how the individual plies of Arbor and Vale (shown above, top to bottom) appear more compacted and how the fibers in each single are oriented in the same direction. They are: Woolen and Worsted. October 2016 The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. The result of this woolen-style preparation and spinning is a yarn that retains the lofty, air-trapping qualities it had before spinning. For example, if they just list an email address for pattern inquiries, dont message them on every social media platform where you can find them, too. Thank you for an excellent and informative article, Jill! Dye baths are created using a precise calibration of dye, temperature, and water flow to protect the lofty, softness of the wool and to ensure the colors are repeatable with every new dye lot. How satisfying! In my spinning past, I've spun from locks, from picked fiber 'clouds' , from bats, had also tried a badly produced rolag or two and gave up ~~ but mostly all the years I've spun its been from roving, sliver, and combed top. 2.22 yds UK Sherry 100% Spun Silk Fabric Luxury Suiting 9 oz Apricot 80" BTP . Youve just figured out your yarns WPI. The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. Woolen yarns are made of carded yarns and are fuzzy and bulky. Ill explain what these things are, first, and then talk about why theyre so important. Woollen Yarn Woollen yarn is spun using a short staple fiber prepared by handcarding and rolled into rolags. And now for the tricky, but crucial, part of yarn substitution: making sure you hit gauge. This is a more subtle detail, but depending on the type of project youre making, it can be significant. So well illustrated and explained. This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. That would be worsted-style shopping. That is worsted drafting. The one on the left is woolen spun, and the one on the right is worsted spun. The most important thing when choosing a yarn substitute is to pick a new yarn that is approximately the same thickness, or weight, as the recommended yarn. But not always. Annie. Domestic wool combed top from Poppy Flower Fibers, 4 oz. It also explores the differences between woollen and worsted processing systems and products. I am currently knitting with Empire and wondered what made me love it so much more than (another lovely but unnamed) yarn of the same gauge. Our BWC Wisconsin Woolen Spun yarns are two-ply in both the fingering and worsted weight and are available in 100 gram skeins. Because filaments wrap the worsted core, the yarn is noticeably less uneven and has fewer defects than worsted yarns. Cheers and Thanks. If youre really comfortable with doing a lot of math, making adjustments on the fly, and pulling out your work if you decide you dont like how it works, then feel free to experiment with a yarn of a different gauge. Thank you so much Katie. The table below lists some of their properties: July 2021 Woolen yarns feel lighter, can feel textured and have a halo, and if the fibers like to be hairy or fuzzy, they will be flying their fuzzy freak flag. Woolen yarns have variable fiber arrangement In woolen spun yarns the fibers are running in multiple directions, like a cloud. Copyright 2023 A Bee In The Bonnet | Bamboo on Trellis Framework by Mediavine, This site uses cookies to improve its performance and to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. very smartly elaborated the article. . Spinning Thank you for this article. PHONE: 1-208-452-4948 Pilling should not be conflated with the characteristic bloom of woolen spun yarns. May 2018 That little strand of silk-mohair yarn is important, because the mohair fibers catch on each other and lend stability to the fabric. Wool is readied by washing (lanolin is the by-product), carding, sometimes combing, then spinning. Nature Spun Worsted. I have been looking for something to help determine how best to substitute yarn. I think Ill need to read it over a few times to really get it, because there is so much information. July 2018 Even taking in account the difference of color and fiber blend, they are two different yarns. Lisas List: 10 Reasons Knitting Is Better Than Dating, Spurned Gifts: When Knit & Crochet Gifts Went Wrong. It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. On the other hand, the woolen fabrics hold creases and shape well and are more durable. That makes them a great choice for items that are going to get a lot of wear, like socks and sweaters. A 100% wool sweater will look different from a sweater made from linen or bamboo fiber. Theyre great for items that wont get a ton of friction while youre wearing them and that you wear against sensitive skinthings like hats and cowls. They are also warmer because of the airiness. Woolen yarns are generally the least expensive industrial yarns to make. September 2013 May 2019 The fibers in a worsted spun yarn are combed to be parallel and uniform before spinning whereas the fiber for woolen-spun yarns are more casually arranged. . The last time we spoke, it was about sheep breeds and just what all those different fuzzy-bottomed critters had to do with your knitting. Different fibers behave in different ways. God Bless. . Its a great way to see how things might turn out before you start working on your own projects. If youre making socks or colorwork, though, or working on a project that requires clear stitch definition, you should pay extra attention to how your yarn is spun. February 2023 If you substitute with a yarn that is drastically thicker or thinner than the recommended yarn, you wont be able to achieve the right gauge. Appreciate the double check. Its knit using one strand of fingering-weight wool yarn and one strand of lace-weight silk-mohair yarn. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. The amount of twist added when making individual plies of yarn is very important and can take the hand and behavior of the yarn in different directions. Generally, the higher the ply number the thicker the yarn. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. Woolen spun yarns will bloom more after washing and are lighter and airier. You won't want to put . In this photo below you can see the 1ply Supreme (worsted) on the left has more of a halo whereas the 1ply Cobweb (woollen) on the right has better stitch definition - it almost feels like cotton although it is 100% wool. Then you compare that to the ratio of another yarn with a similar fiber content. Interesting point I would like to know that too! And I also now understand my past failures a little better haha! January 2016 Worsted weight yarn is a 10 ply yarn. Well it's all a matter of different fibre preparations, and different spinning techniques. To produce our heathered colors, the scoured fleece is then dyed in a range of intensely saturated base solids, which are then blended together during the spinning process using percentages of the base colors unique to each colorway. The fibers of a worsted-spun yarn are first straightened and then oriented in the same direction, making the yarn smooth and shiny, which gives your knitted fabric lots of stitch definition. Instead of carding the fibres they're combed. Worsted Spun requires a very different fibre preparation, and spinning technique. So much yarn, so many choices the Lust Factor will now have a bit more knowledge backing it up! March 2020 lovely wool yarn selection from Jagger Spun. The carder opens up the fiber and blends it evenly, resulting in a thin cloud- or web-like sheet commonly known as abatt. Im usually a picker, and I never pull from the center of a ball. That wasnt the silhouette I was aiming for. Here, we take a closer look at some of the industrys top woolen-spun yarns. Worsted yarns are spun with all the fibers aligned, making a smooth and dense yarn with more sheen and drape. One way is controlled; twist is brought to the fiber like a gift. December 2013 Theyre lofty yarns, so they make lightweight, absorbent fabrics, Elsa Hallowell says, which feel cooler when its warm and very cozy when its cold. www.wool-clothing.com, Content: 100% pure virgin wool Put-Up: 170yd [155 m]/1 3/4 oz [50 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash gently in lukewarm water Recommended Gauge: 24 sts = 4 (10cm) on sizes 35 (3.253.75mm) needles, Flywheel is a sportweight version of Harrisvilles well-loved Watershed. The combing process removed all the shorter length hairs, leaving behind fibres of the same length, free from tangles. Want a refresher on the difference between worsted-spun and woolen spun yarns? Our Barrett Wool Co. Wisconsin Woolen Spun Yarns are about as close to homespun as we can get. That is woolen drafting. I ALWAYS substitute my yarns and I know now that my yearn choices are the reason I never seem happy with all my hard work. It also means woolen-spun yarns are warmer than their worsted counterparts as these air pockets help hold body heat. Thank you. They are also warmer because of the airiness. It is named after the small English village of Worstead, in the county of Norfolk and this village was a center for manufacturing in the twelfth century. Because there is less air trapped in the spun fibers, the resulting yarn is dense, smooth and resistant to abrasion. January 2023 Check out our worsted spun wool selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. I have been knitting for almost 50 years and have never understood what worsted yarn was all about. It resulted in a hat that was light as a cloud but still structurally sound and very warm. Compared to woolens, worsted wool fabrics are brushed in two directions with special brushes. $43.99 + $10 . Yeah, were talking that level of soft. Original Yarns Thank you Jagger Spun for the information! Wool is warm and lightweight and takes dyes well. Bees This is extra work youre asking them to undertake, and knitting patterns are already underpriced. Thank you for this lucid explanation and the swatches to illustrate it. The twisted singles are then plied together on the twisting frame Arbor is comprised of three plies, while Vale is comprised of two. The terms roping and sliver are often used interchangeably. September 2021 4/9. The Empire (on the right) is less consistent, and looks a little puffier. Please note: If its too tight (that is, more stitches per inch than it should have), try going up a needle size. Worsted noun. Sometimes, even after all that, you still might not be sure whether the yarn you want to substitute will work for your project, check out other peoples projects. The Clun Forest yarn is lofty and warm, hand-dyed in variegated and solid colorways, and also offered in undyed white. October 2015 Todays topic is woolen and worsted drafted yarns. Twist is then inserted only as the fibers exit the draft zone, not concurrently as in our woolen-spun yarns. Any amount of twist, be it a lot or a little, is essential for creating knittable yarn. Thanks. Worsted style spinning got me 183 yds from 4 oz. The fiber is compressed and smoothed, and air is squeezed out as the twist is applied to the fiber. If Im knitting a gansey to last more than a few years, and want fantastic, crisp stitch definition, Ill choose a worsted spun yarn. September 2020 For example, a yarn labeled 2/fine (often known as fingering or sock weight) can have a WPI of anywhere from 12-18. Great explanation, i aways spin long draw and card my alpaca, tearing long strips off of the batt, i would be interested in working out what type my yarn is. One method is not better or worse than the other just different. No need to go to the gym if you do an hours wool combing! Maurice Brassard Cotton Computer Color Numbers. July 2014 Thank you! December 2020 You can see the stitches in the worsted swatches just show up. You have made it so clear to me. Natural fibers will be easier to block than acrylics (which can be killed with steam, but otherwise just are what they are).